Edwardian jewelry, named after the British monarch who reigned from 1901 to 1915, represents an era of grace and sophistication. These pieces serve as glittering testaments to a specific historical period, deeply intertwined with the social and cultural shifts that occurred from the turn of the Century leading well into World War I.
Stylistically, the elements found in Edwardian jewelry gained popularity before the end of Queen Victoria's reign and lasted a few years after King Edward's death. The period ran within the La Belle Époque era, which shared many of the same characteristics that defined specific tastes and trends with the rest of Europe. It was a time of optimism, technological advancement, and cultural flourishing.
A Departure From the Victorian Style
Fun-loving King Edward VII and the stoic and reserved Queen Victoria were a study in contrasts. Aside from differing vastly in personality, their approach to monarchy and the historical periods they presided over were completely different.
King Edward VII was known to be outgoing, social, and had pleasure-loving ways. Even as the Crown Prince, he chafed under his mother's restrictions and was infamous as a gambler and somewhat of a playboy. Moreover, King Edward VII was less interested in the nuances of being a monarch. While Queen Victoria was a symbol of stability during a great time of change, King Edward VII used his charm and diplomatic skills to appease the delicate situation in the run-up to World War I, playing a role in forming the Entente Cordiale, or the alliance between Britain and France.
The social climate and fashion changes were seismic as Queen Victoria's reign ended. The newfound optimism that characterized the Edwardian Era also translated to changes in fashion. The skirts, corsets, and structured silhouettes for women that reflected Victorian rigidity gave way to lighter fabrics, flowing styles, and brighter colors emphasizing personal expression. As the 19th Century drew to a close, these drastic changes in fashion also translated to changes in jewelry design. The fin de siècle meant not just the end of a century but a turning point in history in many ways.
The "New" Edwardian Designs
Queen Alexandra of Denmark, wife of King Edward VII
Scientific advancements led to the explosion of mass production during the Victorian Era, ushering in the rise of machine-made jewelry with ostentatious and elaborate designs. However, the late 19th Century saw a trend that emphasized craftsmanship, leading to a dramatic shift to delicate and ethereal designs. Edwardian jewelers drew inspiration from 18th-century styles.
Their distinctive "garland" style diverges greatly from the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements, though they borrowed their flowing lines, creating a new wave of designs.
Taking the grandeur of the Court of Versailles for inspiration and aided by the widespread circulation of historical pattern books, Edwardian jewelers could provide pieces to customers who sought aristocratic elegance. The creation of intricate patterns, particularly in platinum, was furthered by the invention of the oxyacetylene torch in 1903.
The strength of platinum allowed for minimalist settings and new patterning techniques, such as creating milgrain, resulting in jewelry that resembled lace and fine embroidery. These "white" jewels match the trending fashion of the era. The popular motifs adopted during this era, such as swags, bows, and garlands, adorn brooches, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces of the time.
Michelle Valadon's Edwardian Revival
Michelle Valadon's Edwardian jewelry collection captures the era's essence with a modern twist. Prioritizing fine craftsmanship, her pieces echo the meticulous techniques and design cues used by Edwardian jewelers.
Featured in her Winter Dreams collection, these white gold pieces capture the beauty of nature and sculpt various ice dreams into reality. The soft, ethereal lines, intricate beadwork, and milgrain detailing reflect the beauty of winter as they softly dazzle in elegant style.
Ethereal Beauty: Edwardian Earrings
These Edwardian earrings from the Winter Dreams collection capture the essence of their historical counterparts. Moonstones and diamonds shimmer against white gold, evoking the sparkle of winter and the use of "white" metals that became a hallmark of Edwardian fashion.
Michelle Valadon's earrings suit the modern woman perfectly, seamlessly transitioning from delicate fabrics to contemporary wardrobing choices.
Michelle Valadon’s Daisy Drop Earrings capture the essence of winter with intricate metalwork, diamonds, and moonstones arranged in a floral motif.
These Lady Lace Chandelier Earrings are exquisitely crafted from 14K white gold, forming lace, scalloped and beaded to create an ethereal glow around a dazzling moonstone and diamonds, reminiscent of a winter wonderland. The regal presence of the elements within these chandelier earrings reflects the true style of Edwardian, along with the 18th Century style to where the inspirations are derived from.
The Delicate Elegance of Edwardian Necklaces
Michelle Valadon extends the Edwardian aesthetic to her necklaces. These ethereal pendants with garland and geometric motifs embody a distinctly feminine essence, imbuing the wearer with a sense of regal elegance. Dazzling diamonds and haunting moonstones dance alongside intricate white gold metalwork, creating pieces of exceptional beauty.
Chantilly Lace Pendant Necklace
The Chantilly Lace Pendant Necklace is an ethereal piece featuring a 14k white gold lace applique that forms a floral design with sparkling diamonds surrounding a stunning moonstone. It evokes the romanticism associated with winter nights. The fashions of embellished net appliques, bobbins, tulle, and lace patterns were very popular in the Edwardian Era, and these pieces' jewels reflect this.
The Winter Awakenings Moonstone Pendant Necklace in 14k white gold has essential elements that inspired the creation of Edwardian jewelry. The milgrain detailing around the pendant's floral design is reminiscent of ornate Renaissance cues. Icy clusters of diamonds enhance the mesmerizing blue-white moonstone center stone, forming an image that reminds us of the beauty of winter.
Lil Ice Daisy Pendant Necklace
The Daisy Pendant Necklace and Li’l Ice Daisy Pendant Necklace showcase the floral motif formed by diamonds and exquisite milgrain detailing that enhance the moonstones, creating elegant expressions of winter's charm.
Beauty and Refinement: Edwardian Rings
Edwardian rings feature intricate lines and nature-inspired motifs, also seen in earrings and necklaces of the era. Often worn stacked, these rings feature white precious stones, such as diamonds, in pave settings or lining the entire band.
The Eternal Leaves of Winter Ring features a wavy pathway of diamond-encrusted paisley leaves, reminding those who behold it of wintry pathways adorned with fallen foliage.
Edwardian Jewelry: A History of Elegance
Edwardian jewelry reflects a shift from Victorian grandeur to delicate grace. Influenced by 18th-century styles, Edwardian jewelers created intricate pieces in platinum and diamonds, aided by the invention of the oxyacetylene torch. These "white jewels" perfectly complemented the era's fashion, featuring lighter fabrics and embodying a newfound optimism.
Michelle Valadon captures the essence of Edwardian-era jewelry today. Her collection features intricate white gold pieces with ethereal gemstones, such as moonstones and diamonds. Each piece echoes the era's elegance with a modern touch. Edwardian jewelry serves as a reminder of a time when artistry and beauty thrived, inspiring modern-day designers and fine jewelry enthusiasts.